Introducing the Light Bulb Database!

[itchaboyagain]

My name is Derek and I'm a light bulb addict. Looks around the room nervously.

I've spent the last few months testing dozens upon dozens of lights to create a massive online database for health weirdos like us.

​

What is This?​

The thing is, light is extremely important, but when you go to BUY lights, what does the box say? The color temperature and wattage, that's about it.

It's like if you went to buy food and it only had the macros and no ingredients listed, what gives?

Hopefully, this database will grow with time and no one will have to guess what their lights are "made out of".

So far, I've compiled a list of 93 lights (which will continue to grow), some of the very best on the market, for you to sort through.

This includes metrics on:
- CRI and TM-30 (Rf and Rg)
- SPDs (the actual spectral color graph)
- Flicker risk, index, and waveform graphs
- ASD (a measurement of how "realistic" a light is)
- Circadian Light (a relative measurement of how much potential a light has for entraining the circadian rhythm)

There's a section explaining these things more in-depth if you need help interpreting the database.

So this is version 1 and I think it's finally ready to share! It's definitely easier to navigate on a desktop, but it will still work on mobile.

Explore the database here!

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Some of the Findings!​

I've found some interesting and cool things I'd like to share here as well:

I'd always heard that LEDs were capable of achieving less flicker than incandescents, which is true.

What I found though, was that halogens/incandescents over 72w don't flicker at all.

Apparently, the AC current is no longer capable of influencing the brightness levels of the tungsten filament.

Some of you may have heard of Sylvania Natural bulbs, they claim to utilize "TruWave" technology.

TruWave is supposed to get rid of the turquoise dip and blue spike found in normal blue LED-based phosphor bulbs.

Well, their 8 and 11w bulbs are just normal blue LED phosphor pump bulbs so they're straight up lying to consumers about those.

Here's what the 8 and 11w "TruWave" LEDs from Sylvania look like...

TruWave? More like LIEWAVE! Sheesh.

Anyways, the 15w actually does have the advertised spectrum, so that's cool.

As you can see the large blue spike and turquoise dip are greatly diminished.

Probably the most interesting lights I tested were the new Ultra Definition bulbs by Philips.

They're quite nice-looking bulbs with an average CRI of around 95, and the spectral graphs aren't bad either:

There is no large blue spike or turquoise dip!

While there is a large red spike, I'll take this over a blue spike any day, and since it helps round out the red output, skin tones will look better under this light than most others.

Well, I think that's enough for this post!

I go over a lot of this stuff in a lot more depth in my article on Best Full Spectrum Lights if you want to read more!

 

[yerrag]

Thank you.

How are you getting these value? Do you have instruments to measure these values? Do you have a degree in color science?

There are many interesting things about color and wavelength I've come across.

Like why are some fire trucks colored yellow-green instead of red. It's because that wavelength catches our attention more because its wavelength excites our eyes more.

Or why streets lights at night such as sodium lamps are yellow instead of white. Because of the same reason as above. A lower wattage sodium lamp allow our eyes to see as much under that wavelength compared to a higher wattage white light. Our eyes are more excitedor sensitized to detail under that wavelength.

Or why whites appear whiter when there is a tinge of blue added to a detergent. It's that the reflectance is enhanced by the blue tint that keeps light from reflecting in all directions so that the reflection of light is directed in a more directed manner towards the viewer. The blue tint absorbs more of the yellow wavelength keeping yellow reflections minimized so we see less yellowing.

 

[miquelangeles]

I believe the neodymium glass full spectrum incandescent bulbs such as Chromalux from Lumiram are the safest option.

 

[biggirlkisss]

I would like to add that I see 95cri bulbs in stores 2700k Philips 60-Watt Equivalent A19 Ultra Definition Dimmable E26 LED Light Bulb Soft White with Warm Glow 2700K (4-Pack) 576116 - The Home Depot

need to contract phillips for spec sheet.

@miquelangeles

Some manufactors will provide what called a spec sheet that shows the balence of the colors. You can try contracting manufactor as well. The higher the cri which means the color rendering index the more rich the red is the lower cri the blue it is. Spec sheet though is always best. I am more interested in bulbs at higher wattages for near infared to make up for dark winter days. It's harder to find high cri that 2700k in those higher wattages. I think cred led chips are the way to go.

 

[itchaboyagain]

Thank you.

How are you getting these value? Do you have instruments to measure these values? Do you have a degree in color science?

There are many interesting things about color and wavelength I've come across.

Like why are some fire trucks colored yellow-green instead of red. It's because that wavelength catches our attention more because its wavelength excites our eyes more.

Or why streets lights at night such as sodium lamps are yellow instead of white. Because of the same reason as above. A lower wattage sodium lamp allow our eyes to see as much under that wavelength compared to a higher wattage white light. Our eyes are more excitedor sensitized to detail under that wavelength.

Or why whites appear whiter when there is a tinge of blue added to a detergent. It's that the reflectance is enhanced by the blue tint that keeps light from reflecting in all directions so that the reflection of light is directed in a more directed manner towards the viewer. The blue tint absorbs more of the yellow wavelength keeping yellow reflections minimized so we see less yellowing.

This data was collected using a Hopocolor HPCS-300P Mini. No degrees, just a self-taught hobby.

I can't afford an integrating sphere so I simply attached an E26 socket to a 5-gallon bucket and blocked light from getting out by placing foil tape all around the outside. Good enough for my purposes.

I allowed the LED lights to warm up for an hour before readings were taken.

But yes! Yellow or amber light is right in the middle of the photic range so that makes sense. Our eyes are most efficient at seeing that light. That's why "high-CRI" lights inevitably lose the efficiency battle because they include more short and long-wavelength light that doesn't contribute as much directly to a high lux output, since lux is only measuring photo-sensitive light, not all light.

 

[itchaboyagain]

I believe the neodymium glass full spectrum incandescent bulbs such as Chromalux from Lumiram are the safest option.

I've tested those in the past and was pretty disappointed with them.

Here's a spectral graph (which they don't provide even when requested) of a chromalux incadescent bulb:

As you can see the neodymium blocks some yellow and red which gives it a slightly cooler color, but the CRI and color quality suffers quite a bit:

The R9 suffers tremendously.

So they're basically lying about their lights, you'll notice that if you look, you can't find any 3rd party spectral test data on any of their lights. This is why.

Sorry if you've been duped, I was pretty excited about these lights when I first found them but after testing their spectral qualities I can no longer recommend them.

 

[A-Tim]

This is awesome! Thank you.

 

[A-Tim]

A thought - I know jack-all about light bulbs and their properties. I assume you are from the USA? Are these properties going to be affected by a different regions' electrical system. For example, given I live in Australia, would any of these results be expected to vary in particular ways?

 

[amd]

Most LED bulbs that try to simulate natural light max out at around 800 lumens, others reach 1600 lumens, while a few close to 3000 lumens.

Brightness is an important aspect.

 

[biggirlkisss]

@itchaboyagain Have you checked CFL warm white ones. I've seen spec sheet they are mostly yellow and not red.

@A-Tim a 240 volt incandnet bulb would have a thicker filment so it meant be more red. Leds dont usually change color temperature dimming but they do if they say they do usually 2200k.



Can you share your spectroscope where you buy it? I want to experiment more as well.

 

[miquelangeles]

I've tested those in the past and was pretty disappointed with them.

Here's a spectral graph (which they don't provide even when requested) of a chromalux incadescent bulb:

View attachment 48705

As you can see the neodymium blocks some yellow and red which gives it a slightly cooler color, but the CRI and color quality suffers quite a bit:

View attachment 48707

The R9 suffers tremendously.

So they're basically lying about their lights, you'll notice that if you look, you can't find any 3rd party spectral test data on any of their lights. This is why.

Sorry if you've been duped, I was pretty excited about these lights when I first found them but after testing their spectral qualities I can no longer recommend them.

Thanks for sharing the spectral graph for Chromalux.
I know their shortcomings, I only said they are the safest option out there. Incandescent bulbs are the only safe artificial source of light but if you use them during the day time they will make you sleepy due to the excessive yellow and orange. Neodymium glass attenuates that. The EMF they emit is in the 50/60Hz mains frequency which isn't very harmful. Their flicker is acceptable because of the tungsten's thermal inertia.
Any other type of electric light will likely cause more problems than it resolves, because they will require a specialized power supply to transform AC into DC which is never perfect and is typically in the 20kHz-400Khz range. A linear power supply will solve some of the issues but the choice of bulbs and wattage will be limited by the PSU specifications. Have to keep in mind that any flicker is the manifestation of the variations in the electromagnetic field.
A 400,000 times per second flicker may look great on graphs and be imperceptible, but it is accompanied by a 400kHz EMF.
I went on a similar quest a while ago and tried many lamps. I really liked the spectrum of ceramic metal halide lamps. I also have 4 large OSRAM XBO xenon arc cinema lamps. The xenon lamp is the most accurate sunlight simulator and is the only type of lamp approved by the FDA for testing SPF creams.
It's not easy to achieve high lumens without creating EMF noise. Much better to move your desk near a window or take your laptop to the park and use incandescent bulbs after sunset.

 

[LeeLemonoil]

@h.c.

A thread for you

 

[David PS]

 

[itchaboyagain]

A thought - I know jack-all about light bulbs and their properties. I assume you are from the USA? Are these properties going to be affected by a different regions' electrical system. For example, given I live in Australia, would any of these results be expected to vary in particular ways?

That’s a good question, yes I am from the US, I haven’t tested any of these lights on a 220/240V AC supply.

My guess is that the lights that have a very obvious 120hz waveform would simply adapt to a 240hz waveform (which is definitely better) and any lights that have higher frequency modulation patterns would retain that quality.

 

[itchaboyagain]

Most LED bulbs that try to simulate natural light max out at around 800 lumens, others reach 1600 lumens, while a few close to 3000 lumens.

Brightness is an important aspect.

Agreed! That is definitely a shortcoming. Currently you have to spend hundreds on these lights and install them with string lights or something to get adequate lumens.

Fingers crossed someone will create a sunlike high lumen device. I’ve pondered trying to do it myself.

 

[itchaboyagain]

@itchaboyagain Have you checked CFL warm white ones. I've seen spec sheet they are mostly yellow and not red.

@A-Tim a 240 volt incandnet bulb would have a thicker filment so it meant be more red. Leds dont usually change color temperature dimming but they do if they say they do usually 2200k.



Can you share your spectroscope where you buy it? I want to experiment more as well.

Here’s the spectrometer I am using.

That’s a good question! I recall seeing some posts on here about 130V bulbs burning redder or something to that effect. Maybe I’ll find some more to test.

 

[itchaboyagain]

Thanks for sharing the spectral graph for Chromalux.
I know their shortcomings, I only said they are the safest option out there. Incandescent bulbs are the only safe artificial source of light but if you use them during the day time they will make you sleepy due to the excessive yellow and orange. Neodymium glass attenuates that. The EMF they emit is in the 50/60Hz mains frequency which isn't very harmful. Their flicker is acceptable because of the tungsten's thermal inertia.
Any other type of electric light will likely cause more problems than it resolves, because they will require a specialized power supply to transform AC into DC which is never perfect and is typically in the 20kHz-400Khz range. A linear power supply will solve some of the issues but the choice of bulbs and wattage will be limited by the PSU specifications. Have to keep in mind that any flicker is the manifestation of the variations in the electromagnetic field.
A 400,000 times per second flicker may look great on graphs and be imperceptible, but it is accompanied by a 400kHz EMF.
I went on a similar quest a while ago and tried many lamps. I really liked the spectrum of ceramic metal halide lamps. I also have 4 large OSRAM XBO xenon arc cinema lamps. The xenon lamp is the most accurate sunlight simulator and is the only type of lamp approved by the FDA for testing SPF creams.
It's not easy to achieve high lumens without creating EMF noise. Much better to move your desk near a window or take your laptop to the park and use incandescent bulbs after sunset.

The flicker from a tungsten filament bulb is quite large until 72w where it disappears completely. You can see the flicker waveforms from various attaches in the database. They are in the high risk range according to the IEEE std, and many LEDs perform better.

Sure some LEDs have high frequency flicker, but many do not, such as some waveform bulbs and a few others.

However as I said, once you hit the 72w threshold (seen with a halogen) the flicker is indeed fantastic and completely gone.

I’d love to test some other odd lights like that, they’re quite impractical for most people however.

 

[S.Holmes]

 

[EvanHinkle]

Thanks for sharing this. I appreciate the database and it’s helping me make better choices in lighting. Always some trade-offs when it comes to using LEDs, (now that it’s increasingly difficult to get incandescent flood lights) but at least I can choose something that actually meets my needs instead of just crapshooting it.

Thanks again.

 

[itchaboyagain]

Thanks for sharing this. I appreciate the database and it’s helping me make better choices in lighting. Always some trade-offs when it comes to using LEDs, (now that it’s increasingly difficult to get incandescent flood lights) but at least I can choose something that actually meets my needs instead of just crapshooting it.

Thanks again.

That’s the hope! Informed decision making requires information!

We’ll keep this updated as new products become available as well.